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Description
JBF Rolex “Label Noir” Tourbillon All Black Edition (116400 Base)
A groundbreaking release that successfully houses a true mechanical tourbillon within a 1:1 PVD Oyster case.
Powered by Custom Seagull Automatic Tourbillon
The movement represents a significant re-engineering of a standard Seagull tourbillon to fit the specific footprint of the Rolex 3131 caliber. By stripping 51 original components and machining 94 custom additions, JBF watchmakers managed to align the tourbillon carriage perfectly at the 6 o’clock position. The large-second sweep is maintained on the carriage itself, providing the mesmerizing visual cadence expected from a high-complication piece.
Rated at ±15 seconds per day when fully wound. Due to the complex nature of the rotating escapement, positional variance is expected, but the Seagull base provides excellent long-term reliability.
- ✅ Power Reserve: Approximately 48 hours
- ✅ Complications: True 6 o’clock rotating tourbillon, central hours and minutes
- ✅ Winding Direction: Bidirectional automatic winding
Technical Specifications
The 40mm case utilizes industry-standard 904L steel, treated with a deep black Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD) coating. The mid-case retains the classic Milgauss profile but accommodates the tourbillon depth.
The sophisticated matte grey dial replaces the bright aesthetics of the original. Blackened hands and indices force visual attention onto the tourbillon, while the correct Label Noir inscription is sharply printed.
A highly polished, smooth bezel design that mirrors the deep black tone of the case. The PVD application is uniform, showing no thin spots around the crystal gasket.
Features solid end links and an Oysterclasp. The PVD coating extends fully into the inner folding mechanisms, ensuring consistent stealth aesthetics even when off the wrist.
Why JBF for This Reference?
Many collectors ask: “Why not other factories?”
JBF is currently the undisputed pioneer for this specific Label Noir modification. While other factories focus on standard Submariners or Daytonas, JBF invested in the heavy movement re-engineering required to fit a true Seagull tourbillon into a 40mm Rolex mid-case without disproportionately blowing out the case thickness.
Full Disclosure: The PVD coating, while deep and visually accurate, is susceptible to scratching over time, revealing the bare 904L steel underneath—a common limitation of all PVD replicas compared to genuine DLC.
Data Sheet
| MODEL REFERENCE | 116400 Label Noir Tourbillon |
| FACTORY / VERSION | JBF Edition |
| MOVEMENT | Custom Seagull Automatic Tourbillon |
| CASE MATERIAL | 904L Oystersteel (Black PVD) |
| WEIGHT & THICKNESS | [unconfirmed] g | [unconfirmed] mm |
| CRYSTAL & LUME | Scratch-Resistant Sapphire | Standard Chromalight |
| DIMENSIONS | 40.0mm × 48.0mm × [unconfirmed] mmManual measurements — minor tolerances apply. |
| WATER RESISTANCE | 30m / 3ATM — professional pressure test recommended before swimming |
Collector Q&A
Q: Is the tourbillon at 6 o’clock functional or purely cosmetic?
A: It is a fully functional, true mechanical tourbillon. The Seagull base movement was heavily modified by JBF, removing 51 parts and adding 94 custom components, to create a rotating escapement that accurately mimics the Label Noir modification.
Q: How durable is the black PVD coating on the JBF edition?
A: The physical vapor deposition (PVD) coating is applied over 904L Oystersteel and offers moderate scratch resistance. However, deep impacts or sliding against abrasive surfaces will expose the underlying silver-tone steel, so careful wear is advised.
Q: Does this model retain the magnetic resistance of the original Milgauss?
A: No. The original soft iron Faraday cage had to be removed to accommodate the depth and display window of the tourbillon complication.
Q: What is the most notable flaw on this specific replica?
A: The mechanical noise of the Seagull tourbillon is slightly louder than a standard Rolex 3131 clone movement, and the sweep of the seconds hand attached to the tourbillon carriage has a distinct visual cadence compared to standard high-beat calibers.
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